Category: Woodworking plans
One of the great things about having the tools and skills to complete carpentry jobs is that you can make almost anything you want with ease. With some simple equipment and a dedication to detail, it is easy to learn how to build a wooden chess board.
While building a box might seem daunting at first, it doesn’t have to be difficult. Most people would assume that creating a DIY chess board out of 64 square blocks could be time-consuming, but when it’s all said and done, you’ll be quite proud of your handiwork.
Don’t be afraid to build a wooden chess board; just grab your table saw and prepare to put your woodworking skills into action.
The key to completing any quality woodworking project is to start with top-notch materials. Pick two contrasting kinds of wood such as maple and walnut. Make sure it is dry and straight.
The chessboard will be made up of 64 equal-sized square blocks. If these corners aren’t properly aligned, you are going to notice the gaps due in part to the contrasting color choices. We highly advise against cutting and gluing 64 separate blocks. Instead, use eight strips of wood which will make up the squares.
If you have an old wooden table lying around that you were planning to get rid of, you might be able to do this project even easier! Check out this idea to create a custom chess board from an old wooden table.
Start by cutting four strips of both wood choices. You’ll want them to measure two-inches wide, then edge-glue them to each other while ensuring they are perfectly aligned.
Once your glue has dried, crosscut the assembled panel with your table saw to true up one end. This will leave you with eight 2-inch wide strips of wood again. Rotate them properly and glue them back together but this time alternating the colors to create your chessboard design.
Wait for the glue to dry and sand the surface to remove irregularities. You’ll notice that the grain will run in varying directions because of how you constructed it, so don’t be afraid to get out the drum sander.
Your next step to build a wooden chess board is to groove the edges for the splines. Make some passes with the table saw while the blade is set to ¼-inch. Next, plane a light chamfer on the top surface and sand it to the final grit.
If you’ve built the lid as if it were part of the sides, now you can cut it free with the table saw. To reinforce your miter joints, most people will use a spline to add additional strength.
Coving the sides of your box is best done before you finish the build. Simply pass the wood on your table saw at an angle taking light cuts. For a cove, you want to bevel your blade at 45-degrees.
As a tip to make your DIY chessboard easier, clamp your straight-edged board as a fence on the saw before making several passes.
Once you’ve completed coving, cut your side pieces and miter them. Cut 1/8-inch thick x 1/8-inch kerfs to use as splines on the mitered ends. Your next step is to cut the ¼-inch x ¼-inch groove located inside the box sides. You’ll do this with plywood but make sure you don’t glue them as they must have some float to them.
Sand the inside of the box while using masking tape to catch any escaping glue. Dry assemble your box and make sure everything is going to fit properly. Once you are sure it is ready, glue each piece carefully on a flat surface.
Once everything is square and lined up properly, allow the box to sit overnight. The next day, you can remove the tape and excess glue. Then, cut around the box to remove your lid.
This isn’t a necessary step, but to create a more sophisticated look, you’ll want to build a wooden chess board with a base. Do this with two pieces of ¾-inch walnut measuring 1 5/8-inch wide and ¼-inch longer than your sides. Miter your ends and stick them together back to back with some double-sided tape.
On your center line, you’ll want to drill a ¾-inch diameter hole located 2-inches from either end. Next, cut directly through the center with this length. Cut any waste away and clean up with your block plane plus rasp. Miter the four sides together and glue them to make a base.
After that is complete, simply glue it to the bottom of your DIY chess board.
Mortise your hinges to the box and the lid. Then, sand the outside and finish off the piece however you choose. Some people think it adds a nice appeal by putting some felt inside and including separators. This is entirely up to you and will not affect the quality of your board.
Building a wooden chess board is a great project to tackle to show off your skill and expertise. Once it is completed, the entire family will enjoy sitting around to play games. It might even encourage younger members of the family to get involved with woodworking as well. A great place to start would be with our 3 Easy Woodworking Projects for Kids. Together, you and your family can enjoy the great craft of woodworking.
Having the perfect spot to do your woodworking projects is essential to every good carpenter. It allows you the space as well as the function to complete the task at hand. It also allows you to set up shop with the most basic of materials. You can build a woodworking workbench that provides you all the purpose you need for your building projects in a minimal amount of time following this woodworking workbench plan. Only simple materials are needed for this project that you will find will provide you plenty of use in your workshop. Here is an article about A Short History of Workbenches to give you some inspiration.
Using our DIY plan to create your very own custom workbench is easy with these step-by-step instructions that help to walk you through the construction process. These steps include:
Be sure to take your time with the building process and follow the plan as detailed below. You’ll have a custom worktable that you’ll be proud to call your own and place inside your workshop. So, don’t delay! Get started now. Your project is waiting for completion, and this woodworking workbench plan will help you along the way.
Before you begin crafting your workbench, you need start with the basics and procure the supplies and tools that you will need for the project. It is important to have everything you need at the ready so nothing interrupts the building process and you are able to complete your plan without any hiccups.
You should be able to find all the supplies you need for this plan at your local home improvement store. You may even have some of the supplies at your home ready for use. Gather all your supplies and tools together and have them ready as you begin the build process. You can find more information on essential woodworking tools by reading our Top 7 Essential Woodworking Tools for Beginner Carpenters article.
You will need to have the following tools and supplies:
Now that you are ready to begin the building process, you need to consider the dimensions you want to employ. You may have a designated space within your garage or basement that you are planning to base your woodworking workbench plan on. It is a good idea to think about the space you have available to fit your DIY bench, and custom fit your plan to match.
Measure the area planned for your work surface and create a diagram of the layout. This can allow you to build a work surface that is completely custom to your workspace and provides you all the functionality you need in your workshop.
You should consider the size that you want the tabletop surface of your work table to be as well as the height dimensions. Think about how you will use your worktable and design your layout based on the functionality you will need. If you plan to stand while working at your work surface, you will need longer legs than if you will be doing a lot more sitting to work at the space. This is an important feature of your plan as too short or too tall a worktable will be uncomfortable and difficult for you to work and get the most use out of.
The tabletop of your worktable is particularly important as you want to make sure you have enough room to work while also fitting into your designated space. Give it some thought before you move on to the construction phase as it is best to have a solid idea of what you are creating with exact dimensions. We recommend a worktable size that has 8 ft. legs and a surface area of approximately 36 x 80 inches or the size of a standard door, but any measurements you decide on will work for your project.
When you have determined the size of the worktable, this woodworking plan will help you begin construction of the frame. Building the frame first will allow you to have a stable surface to place the tabletop surface on once it is cut.
To construct the frame, you will need to create two rectangles made from the lumber that you have purchased. You will want to make your frame approximately 2 inches smaller than your tabletop dimensions all the way around as you will want some overhang from the top surface. This will provide you the option to clamp things to the tabletop for convenience and without damage.
When you have cut the lumber pieces necessary to construct your frame to the correct measurements, use the threaded wood screws to attach the wood pieces together to form two rectangles. You will want to add support to the center of the rectangles with a stretch wood piece that runs the length of your bench. If you have chosen a smaller tabletop surface, you may be able to add a singular piece of wood support widthwise through the center. Without a middle support structure, your tabletop will bow in the center and create issues as you use it for all your building projects.
Now you will build the legs of your project by cutting your lumber into your predetermined leg height. You will need eight wood pieces all the same length for the legs. You will use two pieces for each leg to form an L shape and fasten them together using the threaded wood screws you have purchased. Repeat this process three more times until you have formed four L-shaped legs for all of the legs of your frame.
Attach the L-shaped legs to the rectangular frames you have constructed previously– one on the top of all four legs and one near but not all the way to the bottom of your legs. The lower frame will give your worktable the additional support you need. Plus, you’ll avoid any movement in your legs that could cause spreading. The legs should be attached to the corners of the frames and slide into the corners with ease. Use your wood screws to attach each of the legs the frames and secure them tightly.
You will also need support pieces to extend the length of the work surface and provide additional strength as necessary. This will give you plenty of integrity when working on your worktop and the workbench plan you use will provide plenty of options for how these supports can be laid out. You may want to customize your project with cross members or use a traditional straight board design. Both offer plenty of support and can give you a custom appearance.
The lower rectangle frame of your woodworking workbench can also include a shelf. This is simple to do as all you will need to do is cover it with plywood. Simply cut a piece of plywood the dimensions of your lower frame and fasten it to the frame. This will serve as additional storage space for your workshop and provide a nice area to hold tools and equipment.
The woodworking bench plan that you use to build your DIY workbench offers an array of options for a tabletop surface. You may want a more personalized and may select a specialized wood piece for the top. It is also simple to use plywood as the top of your work surface as it provides plenty of durability and can be cut to fit the exact dimensions you need for your tabletop.
Another option for your tabletop design is to use a door. These can be found at reclaim shops or your local home improvement store. You may even have one that you are not using and can repurpose it here. You will not have to do any modification to your door if you decide to use this for your tabletop surface. Be sure to remove all hardware, and it is best if it is a straight door with no raised panels.
Select a wood piece that is long and wide enough to cover your entire frame base. You will want to account for your 2-inches of overhang and be sure to have plenty of room to fasten it to the frame base. You can easily cut your wood piece to the tabletop size you need, so it fits perfectly on the frame base you have built from your woodworking workbench plan.
You may want to consider drilling some holes in your tabletop surface as an option to hold tools, cords or objects that you use on a regular basis. It can also provide an easier way to clean a large top surface as the holes allow you to sweep sawdust and debris off your work table where it can easily be swept up and get out of your way of working.
You will now need to attach the top of your bench to the base. This can be done using the screws and angle brackets. When attaching your tabletop surface to your bench base, you need to ensure it is center and your 2 inches of overhang is properly distributed. Use angle brackets to attach the tabletop to the top frame and secure them with your wood screws. You will need four screws per bracket to ensure a secure attachment.
Once the tabletop is attached, you will want to ensure all the brackets and wood screw are secure on the base as well as the top. Just walk around your DIY workbench and tighten as you see fit.
You may also want to provide a light sanding of the top of your worktable for a more refined look. Another option is to put a coat of polyurethane on it for added durability. This will protect the top of your bench and allow for easier cleanup. You can also add a power strip underneath to power electrical tools that you will be using in your workshop. This will make it extremely handy for the operation of these tools, and a power strip can be added to the top support frame that you built.
Another consideration to keep in mind with your work surface is the event of damage. While this DIY woodworking workbench will provide you plenty of years of use, if it should become damaged in any way, you can simply remove the tabletop surface and flip it over to use the other side. For more severe damage, you can replace the top of your worktop with a new wood surface. Just follow your woodworking bench plan that outlines the installation of a new tabletop.
Now that the hard work of building your project is complete, you can begin using it as part of your woodshop and have many years of enjoyment with its construction. By using the woodworking workbench plan here, you will be able to build your very own custom DIY bench in minimal time and with minimal effort. This will give you a range of functionality in your workshop and allow you to a dedicated spot to perform all your woodworking projects.
Keep this woodworking workbench plan in mind as you can easily convert them for another tabletop project at your home. This simple DIY plan can make a nice work area for gardening supplies and planting tools as well as a simple craft area for your family to enjoy. The versatility of completing a work table can open the doors to many more woodworking projects for you in the future. Keep building!
Nothing could be more exciting than trying carpentry and your creativity without the involvement of professionals. To make your first steps, however, you will probably need detailed joinery plans.
Beginners need several kinds of information to make the most of every opportunity. For a start, a good woodworking plan should feature information about the required tools and supplies. Step-by-step instructions will also keep novices from skipping one of the essential processes.
The following guide will acquaint you with the top 5 woodworking plans sources. Without further ado, here’s where you can find inspiration and practical suggestions for your upcoming carpentry projects.
Ana White’s website features detailed instructions for the execution of various projects that both novices and more experienced woodworking enthusiasts can excel in.
The plans exceed 1,000 and they’re organized by cost, by skill level, style and room. Some of the easier starter projects include a work bench, a farm table and a birdhouse, for example. Projects for more experienced carpenters are much more sophisticated. Some of the possibilities include a farmhouse bed with storage drawers, a storage shed, a sofa with additional storage and even an entire set of DIY kitchen cabinets.
Every plan is provided with a shopping list focusing on tools and supplies, general instructions, diagrams YouTube videos and pictures of actual furniture/wooden items made following the specific joinery plan.
Our list of top 5 woodworking plans sources has to include Joinery Plans – a website that comes with over 25,000 plans.
Every single plan is provided with a detailed list of required materials and tools, a cutting schedule, a step-by-step guide, photographs, diagrams and additional instructions. The plans are suitable both for novices and more experienced carpenters who want to get excellent results every single time.
There are thousands of projects that can possibly be completed by following the woodworking plans. A few primary categories to mention include tables (dining and coffee tables), cabinets, bookcases, baby cribs, beds, bedroom furniture, storage solutions, decorative solutions and sheds.
The Woodsmith Shop has a website, a magazine and a television show. Anyone interested in the hobby or in professional carpentry should definitely give the content a try. The website features video guides, downloadable woodworking plans and articles about tool selection, useful tips creating different kinds of furniture and advanced techniques.
As far as the free woodworking plans are concerned, these are organized in several categories. There are benches, living room furniture, dining room furniture, workshop storage, bedroom furniture plans, home office furniture and various others.
Every plan provides a list of required materials and tools, step-by-step instructions, diagrams and charts. Cutting patterns could also be included upon necessity.
While this website doesn’t come with the level of plan details that some of the other plan sources provide, there are still some pretty exciting projects to find here.
The Spruce features free of charge joinery plans, as well as articles that beginners can find helpful. There are instructions about getting started with woodworking, choosing the right tools and mastering work with different kinds of wood.
As far as the plans are concerned, there are thorough step-by-step instructions and diagrams. Some of the plans may feature needed tools and supplies but others will miss such information. Such inconsistencies make The Spruce a nice backup option if you’re looking for some inspiration, rather than a primary source of easy to follow plans.
Jay’s Custom Creations is somewhat reminiscent of Ana White’s website. Started by a DIY enthusiast, the website currently features 52 free of charge woodworking plans.
Every plan is provided with videos, diagrams, step-by-step instructions and a list of supplies. The diagrams and the videos show Jay actually working on the respective project, which makes it easier for other DIY carpenters to follow through with the project.
Some of the woodworking areas that Jay’s plans focus in include benches, tables, chests, cabinets, chairs, bed bunks, souvenirs and small items.
Apart from the plans, the website features a tools and resources section that contains a lot of practical information carpenters and hobby enthusiasts may find helpful.
These are just five of the possibilities you’ll find out there. Doing some simple online research will reveal dozens of other woodworking plan sources. When choosing the right one, always make sure that the instructions are clear and easy to follow. Otherwise, you’ll be stuck with a project that you’ll either find impossible to finish or that you’ll be confused by. On occasions, going for premium content will make a lot of sense because it will save you both time and money.
Working on a woodworking project with your kids can be a fantastic way to spend time with them. Sharing your passion for this hobby is also a great way to jumpstart their skills and give them the opportunity to practice. There are so many options for furniture plans, toys and wood building projects for kids that require a broad range of skills and tools. Here are three easy and cool wood projects that will start them on their way.
What better first project is there than a toolbox.
1×6, at least 24″
1×4, at least 24″
1 1/4″ nails
Painting or varnishing the assembled toolbox is a great way to personalize it.
Making a frame and including it with a special photo can make a great gift. The following plan works great for a 5×7 photo. If you need a bigger one adjust the sizes accordingly.
8.5″x11″ piece of construction paper
1″x2″ furring strips
1 1/2″ nails
A great way of learning bigger concepts is to do hands-on projects. This boat can show the basics of how historical paddleboats function. It is a great example of a cool wood project and is also a fun toy to play with whether in a pool, lake or bathtub!
1″x4″ wood, at least 8″
1/4″ wood pieces for the paddle
Safety is always paramount when working with tools, but when there are children in the shop, you must be even more deliberate with your safety considerations. Proper eyewear and using the provided guards on power tools are two examples that are a must when building wood projects with and for kids.
When you pick a project, consider the required skills but from there have your kids choose the one that gets them excited! There are plenty of options for great toys, cool wood projects and even some easy furniture plans they can try their hand at.
Have fun creating!
If you’re crafty, you’ve probably always wondered about the opportunity to build your own dining table. DIY dining table plans are easy to find online but some of them can produce mediocre results. Take some time to go through the opportunities and identify the right one. Having a strategy and following a step by step approach is one of the biggest essentials in terms of consistency and putting together a dining table the entire family is going to enjoy.
Gathering everything that you need to build your own dining table before getting started can speed things up and ensure smooth project execution.
Here are a few of the biggest essentials you will need to gather in order to tackle the project successfully:
The material that a dining table is made of will be determining for its durability and aesthetic appeal. This is why most people go for materials like hardwood. Plywood is more economical and highly durable but it doesn’t have the same sturdy feel. If you’re looking for more sophisticated DIY dining table plans, you could possibly be working with a combination of materials like hardwood and glass.
For a first experiment, however, you may want to keep things simple.
Following the specifications, you should either have your boards sized and cut professionally, or you should tackle the task on your own. Most yards offer milling and straightening services that are inexpensive and that produce highly accurate results. Alternatively, a good table saw will do the job.
The table frame is the first thing to do because it will support the top and the legs will also be attached to it. Use a flat, level surface to work on. Using a carpenter’s square or a tape measure, mark all joints and predrill the holes for them.
Next, use screws and glue to fasten the apron ends to the apron sides. When working, make sure that all corners measure 90 degrees. Once you have the frame, you can begin fastening the tabletop boards.
To build your own dining table, you will next have to work with the tabletop boards.
Flip the frame over and make sure that the joists are flush with the top of the table. Mark the centers of the apron ends with a marker. Line the first two tabletop boards with this center. If you’re happy with the outcome, use wood glue to position and affix them. When completely satisfied, screw the ends of the boards to the apron ends.
After you have the central boards in place, you can apply the other ones to cover the rest of the frame. The procedure is the same – use wood glue first and screw the boards to the apron ends next. Do not screw the side boards to the joists.
Following most DIY dining table plans, you will next have to attach the joists. After the wood glue has dried and you have tabletop boards in place, flip the frame over. Screw the joists to the tabletop. Two-inch screws will usually be sufficient but follow the instructions in your dining room table woodworking plan. The general rule of thumb is to use two screws per joist per board.
The final aspect of constructing the table is attaching the legs to the frame. Usually, the legs are attached to the inside part of the frame. Some people like to apply wood glue on top of the screws. In other instances, the glue can be omitted for the purpose of removing the legs easily and making the table a bit easier to store when not in use.
If you like naked and ascetic dining room tables, your work is already done. In most instances, however, a few finishing touches will make the outcome more polished and aesthetically-pleasing.
Exposed holes (like screw holes) can be covered with wood filler. Let it dry before doing anything else.
Once the filler is completely dry, use fine sandpaper and go over the entire tabletop. Remove the sanding residue thoroughly before applying any varnish or stain to the surface. Before the final step, apply wood conditioner and a stain of preference. The final coat will be clear, and it will serve a protective purpose.
Alternatively, you can go for primer and paint. If you would like something a bit different from the natural appearance of wood, painting the table would be an excellent choice.
So you want to build a folding wooden chair. Great! But with so many free wooden chair plans out there, how do you know which one to use to learn how to build a folding wooden chair? With this plan, you’ll have a mix of comfort and functionality, with style and ease to go along with it. Try out this outdoor wood chair plan today!
The first thing you have to do is put together full-sized photocopies of the front and rear leg as well as the seat support. On a 1/8 inch-thick hardboard, place the patterns with some spray adhesive. Cut the extra side with a bandsaw, then sand until you reach the line. Cut the pieces to shape with the same procedures used to make the patterns. Drill 1/16-inch reference holes a quarter inch deep at each centerpoint. Then place twenty brass inserts on the front legs. Sand the parts finally to a smooth surface and proceed to the next step.
Prepare some overlength blanks to turn into your stretchers. Place a half inch round-over bit on your router, and then rout the blank into a dowel. Make sure to mark lines indicating where to start and stop. Now sand the stretcher until it is smooth. Cut both the front and rear stretchers: the front to 17 and 5/8 inches and the rear to 16 inches. On your tablesaw’s miter gauge, place an extension. Secure the tablesaw and cut a test tenon.
Make sure to the check test tenon and how it fits in the ¾ inch hole that was drilled out previously. Adjust the blade until the test tenon fits perfectly, and now cut the stretchers’ tenons. On your workbench, clamp a stretcher. Now mark the kerfs on each end of the tenon and cut them to the shoulder with a backsaw. Sand until it is smooth.
Fit together the stretcher and the legs without any glue. Clamp these pieces together; the tenons’ shoulders with the legs. With weatherproof glue, now you can clamp the pieces together. The curved side of the legs should be faced upward, allowing the four points to press against the saw table’s flat surface.
Keep parallel spacing by clamping the scrapwood spacers. Now align the kerf; keep it straight against the foot’s angle, allowing the wedges to stay at the same level as the floor. Tap the wedges in place with your hammer after gluing them. When everything is dry, unclamp the pieces and sand the edges.
Rip half inch-thick stock, creating the back and seat slats for your chair. Try to rip a few extra pieces for later, for use with machining operations. Now rip half inch-thick stock, three inches wide, for the oversized blanks for the slats. Crosscut the slats to length; use a stopblock on your tablesaw’s miter gauge to keep everything uniform.
At the end of each slat, cut rabbets. Photocopies of the slats should be made, which will be attached to the hardboard. To clear the waste and sand the line, use a bandsaw. Drill a reference hole to mark the screw’s centerpoints; use these holes as guides to drill reference holes into the slats, a quarter inch deep. Place a 1 ½ inch sanding drum on your drill press and proceed to place the 3 inch wide fence underneath the drum. Give the sandring drum clearance with a large cutout in the fence, then use the bandsaw to shape it.
On the fence, place a stopblock then pivot the slat over the drum to help smooth what you have cut. Mark the locations of cutouts on the back. Finally, cut the notches and sand. Next, with a 3/8” round-over bit on your router, readjust the fence flush with the bearing of the bit. On these parts, round over the curved edges. Drill countersunk holes in the slats where marked with a stopblock and fence on your drill-press. Sand everything to a final smooth quality.
Place the front seat slats between the seat supports; clamp these slats to the support to keep the assembly fit. With the holes you drilled as your guides, place 7/8” deep pilot holes in the seat supports, then screw. Apply glue on the rabbets. Afterwards, place a ¼ inch thick spacer in the space between the first seat and front seat slats. Do this again until all the seat slats are worked on. Now you can sand the ends of the slats and glue and screw the top and back slats on the assembly.
You will use two straps per chair, so it is important to make one photocopy for each strap of the brass strap pattern. Shape the blank with a bandsaw or a scrollsaw, and smooth the blanks’ ends with a disk sander. Use a scratch awl or centerpunch to indent holes in the centerpoints. Drill these holes with your drill press. Finally, cut brass pipe nipple to ¾ inch lengths with a hacksaw or a scrollsaw, then file each end square after you are done with cutting.
Before you assemble it, you will want to test assemble your chair; do this by sticking the seat assemble to the front-leg with screws and brushings. Now attach the rear to the front, and attach brass straps with more screws. If the assembly fits properly, you’re ready for a real assembly.
Disassemble your test assembly and then place the brass pipe-nipple bushings with epoxy. Sand if you still have to. Finally, it’s time to finish your assemblies, with four coats of Miinwax Fast-Drying Clear Satin Polyurethane, then wipe it off with tack cloth, ensuring the sanding dust is all removed. Now reassemble the chair for the final time with a thread-locking compound, and enjoy your foldable chair! Did you enjoy learning how to build a folding chair? Try out some more foldable chair plans here!
Furniture designers have been playing around with the idea of knockdown furniture for centuries. The greatest appeal has always been that it allowed people without advanced tools to put together practical furniture with simplicity, such as the ever-popular trestle table. So why not try the same approach for some easy wood coffee table plans in just three simple steps?
There’s a reason why they say the classics are the best: we’ve drawn up a great wooden coffee table plan that will fit into any house looking for that rustic, burgundy aesthetic. With nothing more than bit of elbow grease and some light hand tools, you can construct your own wooden coffee table from ordinary one-inch common pine today.
Before you get started, remember: like always, be careful when you pick your wood, especially because the table will be clear-finished and stained. Essentially, you will want to find pieces with no bows or bends, and a few more than you necessarily need just in case you run into knots or other problems.
Crosscut five 1 x 6 boards with a circular saw, but remember that each board should have a little extra length. Afterwards, with a straight strip to help, use a hand plane to join the edges after tearing the boards with too much width.
Next, sort the boards you have in a pattern where their annual rings of adjacent boards are on opposite ends; then on the plate-joint centers, place a mark. With a joiner and the work on a flat and safe surface, begin to cut the plate slots. Remember—it is important to align the upper surfaces of your boards, so make sure to keep each board facing down.
With glue in the slots, it’s time to put together the tabletop and slide in the plates. Then with pipe clamps, lock in the table top. You may find yourself having trouble with a buckling top, so be sure to clamp 2 x 4 pieces with waxed paper beneath them beneath the boards. The waxed paper stops them from sticking to the glue on the top. Scrape off the extra glue after it has dried with a paint scraper, and then with a cabinet scraper, start smoothing out the joints. With a belt sander, pad sander, and or/random-orbit, even out the rest of the surface. When everything is done, you can now to the specified width and length.
It’s now time to focus on each corner where you will cut the radius. To do this, use your sabre saw with a circle-cutting guide, and set a three-inch pivot point on the bottom of the top from every edge. Make the cuts, rout the chamfer around the tabletop’s lower edge, and then smooth out the top.
First thing’s first: Cut two 48 inch lengths of 1 x4 stock so that you can build the trestle beam, which should be 1.5 inches thick. To set alignment holes between the boards, nail them together temporarily. Now you have to establish the mortise locations, which you will do with a square and rule. Afterwards, pull apart the boards and pull the lines to the workpieces’ mating faces.
Now you have to focus on creating the beam tenons. Firstly, on the workpieces’ ends, place the shoulder cuts. Use a clamp to clamp together a pair of 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 14-inch boards, creating a strong and wide foundation for your router with each beam face at either end. Add about an extra half inch to the tenon’s length with guide strips with your cardboard spacer.
Now you can do the cut after the strips have been tacked to the beam. Do the process again with broad cheek tenon cuts after the bottom and top shoulder cuts have been finished. Stick pieces of 1 x4 stock together to make the feet and leg blanks. Ready the pieces that are longer than the specified length and hammer some nails in the extra area at each end, keeping the pieces from moving as you glue and clamp them. After the glue has dried, begin to plane the edges.
At both ends of each mortise, drill in ¾ inch holes, then with a sabre saw, smooth out the rest of the waste. At the end of the beam tenon, remove a slice of cross-section. Place this on the outline of the leg mortise and then create a template frame around it with plywood strips. In your router, install a template bit; make sure that above the cutting edges there is a pilot bearing. Align the plywood frame with the bearing and make your first cut. After that, guide the first cut by adjusting your bit and then finish your mortise. With a chisel, smooth out the edges.
It’s time to cut to the exact length and width on the battens and feet. Make note of the positions of the leg face by marking the battens and feet blank, then make note of the pieces’ centerlines. Steady the edge and hold it in place with your foot as you use the plate joiner to slice a cut over the leg face position, about 7/16 inches above. After your first slot, cut the second slot after raising the joiner with a 5/8 inch thick shim.
In the leg ends, cut the slots. Use your joiner and stock to cut the first set of slots. For the second set, raise the joiner to 5/8 inch shim. Make sure that for the first bevel cut you make, you mark the feet ends. The cut should be made with a handsaw; afterwards, plane it until it becomes smooth. Then you must shape the sloping face bevel with your hand plane after marking it. Finally, mold the compound bevel.
You’re almost done with your easy wood coffee table plan. Remove any excess from the bevel ends flat and rout the chamfers. Now put together the feet, battens, and legs. Put together the table base and create your beam wedges. With a drill, make a half inch hole in all of your battens. Fill these holes with dowel centers and—after aligning the top—push to down. Secure each batten by gluing in a half inch dowel.
When your table is assembled, now you can finish it up with your Minwax Wood Conditioner. Finish the job with three coats of Minwax Clear Semi-Gloss Polycrylic Finish and a pair of coats of Minwax Colonial Maple Stain, for that real wooden look. Now you’re done with this expertly-designed furniture plan! If you liked this one, here are a few more free furniture plans you can try out. Enjoy!
A garden shed can be a wonderful addition to any home’s backyard, but learning how to build a garden storage wood shed can be pretty tricky. However, by looking through the best wood shed plans, you can actually find one that can make building one pretty easy. Whether you want a simple lean-to or a large-free standing building (or one of any other of the many garden shed designs), you can find garden shed plans for all types.
With this plan, you’ll find yourself making a modest 6 x 8-ft garden shed, which can hold all of your tools but doesn’t completely dominate your backyard. With this straightforward and easy design, you’ll be able to build your one or several outdoor storage wooden sheds in no time.
The first thing you’ll have to do is mark out the site of your future shed. A lightweight frame that will be the exact size of the shed is best for this. You can build this frame from ¾-inch thick pine, with screws in each corner fastening the sides together in a rectangle.
Clear the site of your shed and tear down any high spots. Adjust the frame in position until you find a suitable place for the shed, then mark the corners with stakes and remove the frame. At the highest corner of the site, start your excavation for your first foundation corner block. Dig out an area larger than the block, with about two or three inches of crushed stone to act as the base for the block.
Now you can position your block, which should have three to four inches exposed above the ground. Make sure that the block is secure with the crushed stone, and then add the other corner blocks the same way.
For the floor, the best material is pressure-treated lumber. 2x 6 stock to length is needed for the back and front rim joists; lay these out on 16 inch centers. Use nails to stick joist hangers on the inside of every inner joist, then set the joists between the corner blocks and position these floor joists. Nail them in place, then make sure to secure the back and front of the floor frame with the outer rim joists.
For the window and door headers, you will need 2 x 6 stock. Nail these header pieces together, and then cut 2x 4 stock to length for door jack studs, wall studs, and windows. On the wall stud, nail each jack stud, then nail 2 x 4 spacers between a pair of studs to create the four corner posts.
Next you will want to frame the back wall. Lay out the stud locations on bottom and top plates, and then set the framing members on the deck. Secure the bottom plate and the top plate by nailing through and into wall the wall members. For the window opening you will want to frame it with nails as well.
Now examine your wall and adjust the current assembly if required, until it becomes square. Afterwards, use 6d nails about six inches apart to set a half inch plywood sheathing. Brace the rear wall by nailing 2 x 4s between the wall and the outside floor joists. TO make the plywood sheathing flush with the deck’s edge, nail the bottom plate to the deck.
Put a frame over the front wall and brace it after standing it. Then repeat with the side walls. Nail all the walls at the corners, and install the wide wall top plates to keep them standing. Check if they are straight with a level.
Spread your 5-inch pitch on the roof rafter with a framing square, then cut the rafter to use as a pattern for a second rafter. Make sure that both of these fit properly before cutting out the rest of the rafters. Now, use a half inch thick plywood from where you will cut a gusset. Draw the roof truss’s outline on the surface of the plywood. Then nail the rafters and gusset together with 2 inch roofing nails.
After nailing the trusses to the walls—both rear and front—make sure to keep the inside faces of the trusses with the gussets at the gable ends. For the subfascia, you will need to cut 2 x 6 stock to length; nail these boards to the rafter ends before installing your gable-end sheathing, then over the gable rafters you will want to nail your pine furring.
For the back and front soffits, you will want to rip cedar stock to width. Nail the subfascia, rafters, and soffit boards together with galvanized nails, then install the fascia. Finally, while installing your roof deck, make sure to let it overhang the fascia by about half an inch. Apply toe roofing felt after nailing aluminum drip edge to your roof’s eaves, and lastly, along the rake edges you need to install the drip edge.
About halfway up the wall, you’ll need to place about 2x 4 nailing blocks between each stud, because of the vertical installation of the tongue-and-groove siding. It will help to complete the roof trim before applying your siding, if you ever intend to paint or stain the trim a color different from the shed siding. Do this by installing the siding boards at a single corner. Fasten the boards with 8d nails; drive the nails diagonally through the tongue, allowing the heads to hide. The nailheads should be a little below the surface of the wood.
It’s now time to install your window and door jambs. The jams should be nailed directly on the framing. The sill pieces should be sloped around five degrees pointing to the outside; next, cut the side jambs and add the top jambs to secure it. From 1x cedar stock, cut out your stops for the windows, then use galvanized nails to install the outer stops. The inner stops should be installed after you have placed the windows in the openings.
Cut your pieces of shed corner boards and door and window trim from rough-sawn cedar, then nail these in place. When clamping on the siding boards for the shed door, don’t use glue, just joints. Screw the battens to the inside of the boards. Then install the door hinges in bored pilot holes, and position the door with a quarter inch of space on every side. Nail the doorstops in place on the open-side and top jamb. Finally, paint or stain as you please. Never find yourself asking how to build a garden storage wood shed again!
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